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Chwys
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Yogi Area
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Sep 23 2009, 6:10 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Sep 14 2009, 10:36 AM EDT
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I have looked at this line with the existing Trem guide in hand but can't make head or tail of where it goes. Is there a topo available? Which makes me wonder when the new guide is coming out (I gather one is in production).
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Last Reply:
RE: Chwys
By: ,
Sep 23 2009, 6:10 PM EDT
Thanks. My ethics don't feel toooo compromised ! I'll let you know how I get on with it next time I'm there.
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Itch
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Peuterey Buttress
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Sep 8 2009, 5:42 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Aug 24 2009, 2:49 AM EDT
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Is there any gear now for the crux? Surely E3 if there isn't
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Last Reply:
RE: Itch
By: ,
Sep 8 2009, 5:42 AM EDT
There's a good small nut in the actual corner, not in the thin cracks on the left where the peg used to be . If in doubt step right to the good resting ledge where you will find the stub of an old peg. Right next to it you will find a bombproof small nut placement. If you think this is E3 then what grade would you give the E1 6a finish to G String which is very similar in nature but much much harder ?
Incidentally I can't see how this is included as a top pitch of Burlesque as it's nowhere near it. It's more logical to do it after finishing Vector or Weaver. From the last stance of Vector climb down the slab on the left and your there. The groove is immediately above you. It's a very good problem and worth doing
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Belshazzar
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Merlin Buttress
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Aug 29 2009, 4:40 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Aug 24 2009, 2:47 AM EDT
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The traverse may feel contrived, but its the best bit!
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RE: Belshazzar
By: ,
Aug 29 2009, 4:40 AM EDT
I'm afraid I followed the natural line up the arete making an unbalanced route, but I did enjoy the first two pitches, well worthwhile
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Slipshod
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Slips Area
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Aug 24 2009, 1:21 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Apr 28 2009, 2:32 PM EDT
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Had a quick look at this the other day but back edoff. Poor gear, hollow holds and nothing encouraging above. Has anyone done it? Do you go on the left side of the arete or the right side? You surely don't just laybackl up it at E1!
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Last Reply:
RE: Slipshod
By: ,
Aug 24 2009, 1:21 PM EDT
Large rockfall has made this harder. Just to the left of the arete bit. When I tried and failed on the route on my last attempt I placed a runner behind the massive block which has now gone, then climbed up onto it in an effort to get on the arete. The route will be purer now but awaits a re ascent and new grade.
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re-entry
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Merlin Buttress
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Aug 24 2009, 2:46 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Aug 24 2009, 2:46 AM EDT
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The actual holds are clean but I thought 6a on-sight gives a more realistic expectation. Well protectable but feels urgent.
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Topo please
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Shadrach Area
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Aug 24 2009, 2:34 AM EDT by
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Thread started: May 15 2009, 4:15 AM EDT
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We should have a topo ready for this wall soon. Leg Break was clean last time I did it - unlike Dotheboys which despite recent cleaning had 18mm diameter ivy stems over much of the middle section! Is this a new fast growing ivy species?
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Last Reply:
RE: Topo please
By: ,
Aug 24 2009, 2:34 AM EDT
Thanks, I've found your booklet on the wiki. I've included all the information. Text is pretty well complete now. You're welcome to join the review group if you feel that existing information is innacurate.
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colinstruthers |
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left hand craig y castell
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Discussion Forum
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Jul 28 2009, 7:28 PM EDT by
colinstruthers |
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Thread started: Jul 26 2009, 10:03 AM EDT
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Yesterday a friend and I went searching for the various buttresses up and left of the main crag. The guidebook description wasn't much help, there were only the very faintest signs of any paths to follow and these often just petered out into jungle. Once amongst the trees it is impossible to judge where you are, let alone where the crags are. Net result: about 40 minutes of thrashing about through brambles, nettles and assorted undergrowth with no sign of anything climbable (I can hear any of my friends reading this laughing). When we got back to the car we looked up and could hardly believe that we hadn't found the crags. Perhaps we're just useless but it wouldn't surprise me if others have had a similar experience.
This is a shame since the routes sounded worth a visit and obviously if people can't find them they will return to an overgrown condition fairly soon. I know it's not the done thing in the UK but it would help greatly if some attempt to waymark the correct approach was made. If this happened then everyone would take the same line up to the crags and a path of sorts would emerge, the routes would see more ascents, the rock might stay clean and the efforts of the first ascentionists would be appreciated by more people. I'm not suggesting anything intrusive, just a small sign at the start of the approach and then a series of smallish paint marks on suitable boulders.
What to others think?
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Last Reply:
RE: left hand craig y castell
By: colinstruthers,
Jul 28 2009, 7:28 PM EDT
Thanks for this, but even with your description I'm not sure I want to spend the time thrashing about. I will probably leave it until the leaves are gone and I'll take some secateurs and a small saw to see if i can improve things a bit. I still reckon some paint splodges would be a good idea but I guess this is only going to happen if others agree.
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The Tree work!
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Everybody's Blog
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Jul 20 2009, 7:17 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Jul 1 2008, 1:34 PM EDT
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Had a meeting today with the Tree plan manager, latest estimates for work to begin are November this year. We are planning the removal of many sycamores below the crag. I hope the bottom of Belshazzar buttress in particular will be opened up. Part of the deal (to get the grant money) is that we ratioonalise the path situation in the woods below the crag too. TO this end there will be finger posts marking the entry points to the key buttresses and some access paths will be closed off with feld timber. I hope this works out OK, the idea being the create 'wild' areas and hopefully makes access simpler for first time vistors.
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Last Reply:
RE: The Tree work!
By: ,
Jul 20 2009, 7:17 AM EDT
Thanks for your comments Glyn, it's been along road to achive it! Cheers
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Stormy Weather- Eleventh Hour
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Hogmany Buttress
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Jul 1 2009, 5:24 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Jul 1 2009, 5:24 PM EDT
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Are these the same route.? I can't see that there's any difference.
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Toreador11 |
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Sheer Khan Right-hand
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Yogi Area
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Jun 29 2009, 9:57 PM EDT by
DavidMed |
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Thread started: Apr 21 2008, 10:50 AM EDT
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Super little route - but I don't think the average VDiff leader would thank you for pointing them at this! We thought it about HS 4a (hard to protect the crux).
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Last Reply:
RE: Sheer Khan Right-hand
By: DavidMed,
Jun 29 2009, 9:57 PM EDT
Hi - I assume that by 'crux' you mean the step[s] up into the top groove? It is protectable - when we climbed it last week, my "average V Diff leader" got a small friend and a medium wire into the bottom of the crack. However, she still hesitated for a while before committing to the moves. When I got there, I could understand why, as there seems to have been some recent 'erosion' of the foot ledge with some shattered rock and a number of quite large loose pebbles. A thin move or two is required before reaching the good holds - I think the starting footholds are now a fair bit lower than before the erosion. The thin step up can be avoided by bridging and laying away at the left end of the foot ledge - interesting, but secure. Perhaps 4a whichever method is used.
Note: we cleared the loose pebbles, but I think more will emerge as the rock continues to break up - care needed.
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Thank you
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Downloads
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Jun 28 2009, 3:23 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Jun 28 2009, 3:23 PM EDT
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Oh Thank you silveryfox, exactly what this under-used site was created for. I did make a little booklet like yours in the early days, but I shall be using yours from now on!
Mike
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Borneo warning
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Borneo Buttress
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Jun 15 2009, 6:31 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Jun 15 2009, 6:31 PM EDT
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Just been cleaning it again last Saturday 13/06/09. A lot of turf and blocks were removed however there are very loose blocks in the top groove/chimney which I did not have balls to touch as they could colapse on me. It is avoidable if you climb the route as described. The rest was mostly moved only by hand which comparing the size of blocks generated rather scary thoughts. it needs a bit of rain to finish the cleaning but then it should be a nice counterpart to its' close neighbours.
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route to the left of daddy cool
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Merlin Buttress
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May 27 2009, 5:32 PM EDT by
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Thread started: May 23 2009, 6:28 PM EDT
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anybody know what route this is ? It has 2 old pegs, route not described in the guidebook !
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route to the left of daddy cool ?
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Home
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May 23 2009, 5:42 PM EDT by
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Thread started: May 23 2009, 5:42 PM EDT
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Can anybody tell me what is the route to the left of daddy cool ! It has two old pegs in it, i`ts not in the guidebook.
cheers !
mills.
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Green Spots on Trees
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Home
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May 11 2009, 8:24 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Mar 20 2009, 3:40 PM EDT
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These are trees which may or may not be removed depending on inspection form the National Park
Cheers
Mike
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Last Reply:
RE: Green Spots on Trees
By: ,
May 11 2009, 8:24 AM EDT
And the tree work continues this week, all looking fantastic. I'm hoping we can use the fallen timber to mark the starts of paths and close off unwanted paths and so save the need for waymarking, will try to do this next week.
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Cleaning Mr Ranger
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Cleaning Mr. Ranger
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Apr 21 2009, 5:23 AM EDT by
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Thread started: Apr 21 2009, 5:23 AM EDT
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Boy what an epic clean, the crack had so much dirt I must of added a further 25% extra gear placements, it ended up with me cleaning the lower walls 'Font Style' t-shirt slapping the holds
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Loblolly Boy
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Loblolly Boy
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Apr 15 2009, 3:33 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Apr 13 2009, 1:16 PM EDT
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Where's this?
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Rienetta
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Discussion Forum
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Apr 6 2009, 1:39 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Mar 16 2009, 4:36 PM EDT
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There appears to have been a new rock fall on this route . I don't know if pitch 3 is stlill possible as described in guide. You might have to climb left of the tree as for Heartbreak Hotel.
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Last Reply:
RE: Rienetta
By: ,
Apr 6 2009, 1:39 PM EDT
Climbed it today. No change, all OK
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Topo Please
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Shadrach Area
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Mar 28 2009, 5:47 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Mar 28 2009, 5:47 PM EDT
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I'd love to see a topo of all the routes on this wall, anyone?
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Void
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Discussion Forum
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Mar 28 2009, 5:43 PM EDT by
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Thread started: Mar 27 2009, 5:09 PM EDT
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Had a look at the graded list of routes on this thread and was surprised that Void was given E3 6a and Cream E4 6a !
Should this be the other way around ? Personally I think Void is way harder than Cream !
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Last Reply:
RE: Void
By: ,
Mar 28 2009, 5:43 PM EDT
I haven't done Void recently, must get on it. It used to be E3 whilst Cream was E4 and whilst the move on Void was harder than any move on Cream it felt the right way round. But I must get on Void again, I think they are probably both worth E4 to be fair.
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