Tremadog - Recently Updated Pages

Hogmany Buttress

stevewong — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 15:06:52 CDT

Life in a Day E3 5c
2 daggers in the guide, any info?
Broadmoor E1 5b
2 daggers in the guide and advice is to ab in, any recent info?
***Psyche 'n' Burn E6 6b
Start in a small corner at the base of the thin crack. Use holds in the crack to climb up and gain holds on the left wall, which is then climbed a couple of metres to a small overlap just left of the crack and level with the peg scar. Step right and climb up the crack (crux) to the obvious good undercut and good gear. Go up leftwards more easily past a peg and then up the wall to another thin crack where the holds on the wall run out. A tricky step left from the crack across the blank wall gains a sloping ledge, then follow ledges rightwards to a step up and left to finish just left of vulcan.
I clipped the remaining peg, but this isn't necessary and could be done without.
***Vulcan E3 6a
*** Falcon E1 5b
*** Pippikin E3 5c
? Sonic Sinbin E4 6b
** Scarecrow E3 5c, 5b
? The Steal E4 6b
** Steelfingers E2 5c
* Raven's Nest Wall E2 5b
? Dead Rooks Don't Speak E3 5b
? Gothic Grooves E1 5b, 5b
W.O.B. HVS 4c
Clean
? Stormy Weather E3 6a
** Hogmany Hangover Hard Severe
? H H Direct Finish HVS 5b
? Eleventh Hour E4 6a
** Omerta Crack E3 6a
Needs gardening; Ivy

Pant Ifan

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Moel y Gest

mihangel — Tue, 08 Sep 2009 04:55:40 CDT

Since the publication of the current Tremadog guide there has been quite a lot of new route activity on Moel y Gest. Some lines have been claimed by more than one party and existing climbs have also been claimed as new routes. Locating the start of climbs and interpreting route descriptions can be frustratingly difficult for the occasional visitor. The attached topo guide(see bottom of page) will hopefully make things easier. Most of the routes are relatively short but the quality of the rock and the beautiful setting overlooking Cardigan Bay more than compensate.
The original guide to these crags was written in 1951 by the well known author and mountaineer Showell Styles who was instrumental in promoting climbing amongst local youngsters. For well over 50 years it has has been a highly popular tradition,for local climbers and walkers, to meet on the summit of Moel y Gest on Boxing Day afternoon to exchange pleasantries and flasks containing various alcaholic beverages.

Moel y Gest Quarry
Despite being a recent "crag of the day" on UKClimbing the quarry is dangerously unstable and should be avoided. Peregrines nest here so it should be left well alone
Foremast Hill
If you follow the access instructions in the guide you will never be able to locate the climbs. They are actually on the face overlooking Tyddyn LLwyn Caravan Park. In his original guide Showell Styles recommends "take the path past Tyddyn Llwyn farm, cross the wall beyond, and traverse to the left up the screes above". All approaches are unpleasant and ,to be quite honest, the routes are poor and not worth the effort.

Slips Area

MikeRaine — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 12:19:11 CDT

* Semper Dexter Nil Sinister E1 5b
Clean, ab the wire sling & maillon.
Bashi Bazouk E1 5b
Clean, go up to same abseil station as Semper Dexter Nil Sinister
Nifl-Heim VS 4c, 5a
OK
Pizzle Puzzle E3 5c
** Pretzel Logic E2 5c, the original second pitch is plagued with pennywort where you exit the chimney, better to do the Venom pitch.
** Venom E3 6a
Clean, brilliant first pitch
** Leg Slip E1 5b
Normal to abseil from finish
** First Slip E1 5c
Normal to abseil from finish
Leg Break Finish
Clean
Freudian Slip E2 5c
First pitch now clean (though will soon grow back), second pitch probably a lost cause - needs attacking from above. First pitch also felt good value.
T.I.S.
Lost
*Slip Shod
Now fully clean Large rockfall just to the left of the arete bit of this route occurred on 24th August 2009. The route is definately harder now.
The Jackal
Lost
Slipway
Lost
Sali Mali HVS 5A
On the buttress wrongly identified as Slipway Buttress on the BMC sign at foot of Crag. Gained by abseil from top of crag, small cairn marks abseil line from good tree. Climb back up the innocuous looking corner which proves surprisingly stubborn. FA 11.1.03 M Lewis, Judy Yates
Solitaire
Lost
Crazy Diamond
Lost

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MikeRaine — Tue, 21 Jul 2009 01:09:02 CDT

The purpose of this Wiki is to keep you updated on the changing nature of the routes at Tremadog. This is particularly important at Bwlch y Moch where much preparation work has been undertaken. Please feed back through this wiki your comments thoughts and information about any routes on the Tremadog cliffs.

LATEST NEWS: TREE WORK NOW COMPLETE
WILD AREAS ARE DELINATED BY LOGS, PLEASE LEAVE TO NATURE
FOOTPATH ENTRANCES ARE MARKED BY LOGS TO HELP YOU AND TO HELP CREATE WILD AREAS
PHOTOS BELOW; ON THE LEFT LOGS MARKING 'WILD AREA' ON THE RIGHT LOGS MARKING PATH ENTRANCE

This Wiki is not intended to replace the guide book but act as a dynamic supplement through which we can inform each other about the current status of the routes. There are lots of question marks still, please add your comments as appropriate. If you do any further gardening please edit this Wiki appropriately. I will be adding photo's and hopefully some topo's as time goes by.

3rd ANNUAL BMC CYMRU TREMADOG FESTIVAL: 18TH/19TH APRIL, 2009.

For the third consecutive year, the weekend of the 18th and 19th April saw the hosting of the BMC Cymru Wales Tremadog Festival. Accompanied by wall to wall sunshine and soaring temperatures, a total of 90 climbers from all over the U.K. turned up at Eric’s caff and field to volunteer their “green-fingered” services. The aim of this annual gathering is to trim and garden spring plant growth from many of the routes at BMC owned, Craig Bwlch Y Moch. In total, 52 routes were cleaned and tidied. Some required just a quick fettle with the secateurs whilst others were subjected to a more extensive level of cleaning… a bit like the difference between a bronze and a gold clean at your local car wash! Organised by Mike Raine of BMC Cymru Wales in association with the Countryside Commission for Wales, this event positively demonstrates and confirms climber’s changing attitudes to the cleaning of established rock climbs. Without this sort of annual event many of the classic and, especially, the not-so-classic routes would become hopelessly overgrown by the encroaching vegetation and, eventually, render these routes effectively un-climbable. In addition to this, some ground work was also done at the base of the cliff to the paths and steps. At the top of the cliff the abseil stations towards the right-hand end were inspected and, in some cases, replaced with new static line and maillons. Please adhere to the new advice signage on the crag notice board if intending to use them rather than walk down. The après-cleaning festivities continued into the evening with a raffle and prize draw with prizes very kindly donated by local businesses such as DMM, V12, Joe Brown Shop, Pete’s Eats, Ground Up, Chris Williams and the Brondanw Pub at Lllanfrothen. By some coincidence, there were around 90 prizes so everyone won something!! This was followed by a slide show on Patagonia hosted by Tim Neil and a campsite bonfire in Eric’s field. All this was washed down with 3 barrels of fine real ale provided courtesy of the Climber’s Club, the BMC and Derby University M.C. Thanks also go out to Eric Jones who provided the warm hospitality and seemingly endless supplies of sausage and chips! However, the biggest thanks go out to all the climbers who gave up their own time and energy to undertake the various tasks. Apart from completing some very valuable and much needed work, the weekend was also very much a social success. It not only raised awareness for a set of environmental issues affecting one of Wales’ premier crags but showed how “we”, as climbers, can give something back to the thing that we use and take so much pleasure from. Anyone wishing to gain further information and/or the newsletter about this or, any other issue(s) affecting Welsh climbing, can contact BMC Cymru Wales by emailing: bmccymruwales@live.co.uk Jim Kelly. 04.20.09

2010's festival will probably be on the 17/18th April

Everybody's Blog

Suggested Itineraries
Abseiling at Bwlch y Moch
Festival Gallery
Mark Reeves Festival Photo Diary
Grasper Buttress
Neb buttress
Christmas Curry Area
Vector Buttress
Shadrach Buttress
Slips Area
Oakover Buttress
Merlin Buttress
Boo Boo Buttress
Borneo Buttress
Yogi Area
Gardener's Gallery
Projects for you!
Graded List Bwlch Y Moch

Pant Ifan,
Fear, Eifionydd and Pen Y Ci
Peuterey Buttress
Avalanche Buttress
Strangeways Buttress
Hogmany Buttress

Outlying crags
Craig Wen
Craig y wernas
Moel y Gest
Craig Nant Dwr Oer

The gardening days have been supported by Eric's Caff, Plas y Brenin and The BMC.

Two other wiki's you may find of interest are www.gogarth.wetpaint.com and www.slate.wetpaint.com . Eric Jones's cafe is right at the base of the crag and is a good place to camp or stay in one of his bunk houses visit; www.ericjones-tremadog.co.uk if you need more information.

Weather: Here a link to the Porthmadog page on metcheck. And here's a link to the webcam at the WHR station in Porthmadog.

Downloads

silveryfox — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 08:55:49 CDT

Attachments have been included at the bottom of this page.

Borneo Buttress

MikeRaine — Fri, 29 May 2009 04:09:22 CDT

Marino
Lost
* Geronimo E2, 5c, veg, 5b
Climbed this 28.05.09 with Elfyn Jones in the lead. Some very interesting and nice climbing but first pitch quite serious, we both bottled out of walking up the ramp. Third pitch needed gardening as we went and does have some large and unstable blocks. It's a quite a little adventure though, worthwhile for locals.
Savage Man E4 6a
Abseil inspection recommended
** Borneo VS 4c
Now fully clean and very good. Belay below top groove, not as described in guidebook. Climb top groove for a short way then undercut right and finish up the rib. The first ascent was by Brian Grimston who inadvertently omitted his own name from the first ascent party. Can we have it included in the new guide ?

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Yogi Area

MikeRaine — Mon, 11 May 2009 07:22:39 CDT

Omo
Lost
* Cnychwyr Severe
First pitch now fully clean and makes a good, well protected variation start to Rio (2nd pitch was very similar to Rio any way)
Tree Radical
Lost
** Rio Severe
Now fully clean, top pitch on superb unpolished rock has a little run out, enjoy!
Abseil station at top of this route.

** Gwaed E1
A fine climb
Abseil station at top of this route
Penicillin E3 6b
*** Chwys E1 5b
A great route, abseil station located at the top of this route, the peg is old and looks rusty but still feels quite solid, you can get a good RP4 or similar in next to it.
Sheer Khan
The second pitch has been lost
But the route has been replaced with:
** Sheer Khan Right-hand V.Diff
A very good route at this grade. Climb the Sheer Khan slab to belay below the steeper headwall. Pitch 2; step up onto the headwall then traverse left to a recently cleaned groove which is followed to the top. Photo below:

Just left of the top corner of Sheer Khan Right hand is a neat little hand jam crack too.

* Sheer Resist E4 6b

Abseil inspection recommended
* Smarter then the Average Bear Severe
Great top pitch up obvious groove on head wall, probably severe
** Yogi VS 4b 4b
Climb the diagonal, quartz filled crack on the headwall
* Mr. Ranger VS 4b
Now fully gardened (see below), The line is obvious, follow the corner then the slab, then back into the corner and finally up cracks to join Yogi, finish up the arête.
* Tro Hard Severe
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this route
** Dagrau HVS 5a
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this route
* Llafur E1 5b
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this route

These last three routes are now visible from the road and should dry very quickly with the removal of the large sycamore at the base.

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Vector Buttress

MikeRaine — Mon, 11 May 2009 07:19:49 CDT

Hail Bebe V. Diff
Clean
*** One Step in the Clouds Mild V.S
Clean, Large moving block on pitch two.
* Dark Side E2 6a
Clean
*** Sultans of Swing E4 6a
** Diadic E1 5b
** Nimbus E2 5c
*** The Weaver E2 5c
Overhanging branches on first pitch trimmed
** Bananas E5 6b
* Llanberries E7 6c
*** Strawberries E7 6b (is it really?)
Dream Topping E 7 6c
*** Cream E4 6a
*** Vector E2 5c
Overhanging branches on first pitch trimmed
* The Croaker E2 5c
** Atomic Finger Flake E3 6a
Now fully clean
** Swift Undercut E7 6c
Check pegs before attempting
*** Void E3 6a
First pitch clean and overhanging branches removed
** The Mongoose E5 6b
Now fully clean
** The Snake E2 6a

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Vector Buttress, as of May 2009, visible from the road

Neb Buttress

MikeRaine — Tue, 28 Apr 2009 13:27:59 CDT

* * Clean Edge E3 6a
Start at foot of Clapton's Crack approach (by metal rung). Step right on to the slab, follow a finger crack, interesting moves around the overhang lead to a rightwards move to gain some flakes. Go up the 'v' groove then make a tricky step right to end up beneath the leaning head wall. This is your 'Strawberries'! Hard climbing up thin cracks takes you to the 'Clean Edge', thence back up right to the abseil station. Abseil station.

Given a trim at '09 Festival, get on it!

** Kestrel Cracks VS 4c, 5a
Now fully clean

** The Neb E2 5b, 5c
Ledge at top of pitch two fully trimmed back, can be climbed in two pitches At top of first pitch ignore guide description, instead move into corner groove on right, pull out right (junction with Dotheboys) and up to spike belay. Much better.
* Broken Edge E2 5c
Usually started from the left, clean
*** Neb Direct HVS 5a/E4 6b!
Oak to be trimmed
** Dotheboys E1 5c/E2/6a
Clean, hard for grade
** Anagram E2 5c
Now fully clean
* Final Exam E2 5c
Now fully clean. WATCH OUT FOR SOME LOOSE BLOCKS
Magic Mushroom
Lost

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Tremadog Festival '07 report

MikeRaine — Tue, 28 Apr 2009 13:25:44 CDT

From Omo the Strawberries! TremFest 2007 Report

What a brilliant weekend. Over 70 climbers climbed over 70 routes. A perfect day of weather and a really good atmosphere on the crag made it a very special occasion. The raffle was a big hit thanks to DMM, V.12, Joe Brown's, Pete's Eat's and Ground Up. The Beer was gorgeous, thanks to Purple Moose and cheers to the BMC. Don't forget all the hard work put in by those climbers who attended the gardening days through the the winter of '06/'07 to get many more routes climbable, all fulled by tea and cakes form Eric's. Rio, especially with the Cynychwr start has emerged to become one of the best rediscoveries. I really enjoyed doing Rienetta with the new start on Sunday, a route no-one would go near in their right mind given the current guidebook description but, it's really good, honest, three stars. Stu McAleese gave a great talk on Saturday night, just back from 10 weeks working in Scotland, Stuart had to juggle a few commitments to make it so a big thanks to Stu. Lot's of people commented that they really enjoyed his talk, but were glad to be spending the weekend at Tremadog!

Triming spring growth wasn't challenging enough for Ross Barratt and Mark Batsford. They decided to take on the ridiculous challenge of cleaning Omo, they are well on with the task and we wish them good luck with finishing it. James McCaffie selflessly nipped up Strawberries to check it was free of brambles and ivy, he reports that it is, so go to it folks.

Your trimming efforts need not be restricted to special events, please carry secateurs whenever visiting Tremadog to help keep the routes and paths open.

Remember, this is your crag, it was given to the BMC and it is up to us to care for it and manage the climbing resource. No one else can do this, only you.

The tree surgeons will move in in November to remove sycamore's from the base of the crag, we will also be waymarking paths to routes and resurfacing the track along the bottom by the drainage ditch too.

Thanks to everybody for turning up, any suggestions for next year, please add your comments below.

Now visit the Festival Gallery

Mike Raine

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Festival Gallery

MikeRaine — Tue, 28 Apr 2009 13:20:17 CDT

Please add your names to the captions. Register, click on easy edit, select an image then click on image and edit caption.

Shadrach Area

MikeRaine — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 14:30:59 CDT

** Grim Wall Direct E1 5b
Clean
An Argument Among Plankton E3
A new line to the right of GWD. Start as for Leg Break but climb wall on left and then slab. Pitch 2 finishes up obvious crack right of the finish to Grim Wall Direct
FA Jan 01 Iwan Jones, Clive Powell
Leg Break E3 5c
Needs cleaning?
** Grim Wall VS 4c
** Meshach HVS 5a
* Rattlesnake Finish E2 5c
Clean
** Shadrach VS 4c
Don’t miss the wide crack!
The Brothers VS 4c
** Brothers Direct E1 5b
Now fully clean
What Ever Either 4C or 5A
A new route (27.3.07). From the stance at the top of pitch 1 of The Brothers climb up towards a niche/overhang. Ascend the crackline and move leftward across a short slab to finish .
The Brothers Independent Finish
Could be under graded?
Oblatron E3 5c
Clean
Emily Street
Clean. E2 with high side runner otherwise feels like E4
Carlo E1 5b
Clean

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Boo Boo Buttress

MikeRaine — Sat, 17 Jan 2009 04:05:22 CST

* Boo-Boo V.Diff 4c
A good varied route if guidebook description followed. Many people do a variation which starts much higher and left of the Boo-Boo normal start. This is Boo-Boo slabs and a good, well protected, two pitch diff can be climbed here which is popular with novice leaders.
* Starship Trooper E4 5c
Clean, but unpleasant approach
Tweek E4 6a
Abseil inspection (and approach) recommended
Rock on Tommy E4 6a
Abseil inspection (and approach) recommended
Hot Rats E4 6a
Abseil inspection (and approach) recommended

High up in the gully left of Boo Boo is a vegetated buttress. The following new route takes the clean(ed) left edge:
Tout Fou E2 5C
Pristine Tremadog rock and interesting moves with the crux at the top.
Step up right onto a block foothold. A good move leftward gains the edge. Move up past a small pointed spike . A bold move gains a small foothold on the right edge. Good gear in the crack on the right protect a final tricky move.
F.A 28.3.04 Mike Lewis, Kev. Davies, Clive Heath and Judy Yates
Bombon El Perro E1 5C 60ftOn the buttress immediately right of Tout Fou Start ; As for Tout Fou. Up the corner for 8ft, traverse right above the overhang to gain some footholds. Two RP’s ( one hidden round the arête ) protect a balancy move up the arête. Swing up left onto a block overhang where an easy arête leads up past a tree branch to finish. FA. 28.5.07 Mike Lewis, Judy Yates

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Grasper Buttress

MikeRaine — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 05:27:20 CST

Approach
The first four routes are best approached from the concrete area immediately at the end of the buildings, a fairly direct line leads you up to the base of the crag.

* Gillijo V. Diff
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier
** Rip Torn E2 5c
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier
** Valerie’s Rib H. Severe
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier
*** Valour E2 5b, 5a, 5c
Overhanging branches cleared, start should stay drier (Will feel like E3 when the peg finally goes)
The Pink Fridge E3 6a
Clean, and overhanging branches removed

The following routes are best approached via the Christmas Curry path. This enters the woods by the collection of metal grids on the road and is very well defined now, when you meet rock head left and look out for the photographed areas.

*** The Grasper E2 5b, 5c
Approach from foot of Clapton's Crack, very clean and excellent done in one pitch, might feel like E3 though!
* New Management E3 6a
Not sure where this goes, anyone?
*** Zukator/Grasper Combo E3 5c
Ivy trimmed, approach improved
The Man Who Fell to Earth
Approach improved
* Quite easy for Bigheads E6 6b
Approach improved
** Marathon Man E5 6a
Fully gardened
** Clapton’s Crack VS 4b 4a
Approach improved, head up towards Kestrel Cracks. Take a small track left towards a broken corner, clamber up this then scramble (could be Diff) up to a tree. Clapton's Crack is the fine corner line. The first pitch is not strenuous but gives delightful bridging and jamming. Take a semi-hanging stance at the top of the corner so you can watch your second. Now climb up over blocks and then step right on to a slab which is followed to a good flake (optional belay) head up broken rocks on the left to the top.
The Sword
Lost

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Christmas Curry Area

MikeRaine — Sun, 11 Jan 2009 09:22:49 CST

** Grotto Vs4c, 4c
Now fully cleaned, much, much better than the name would suggest!
** Grotto Direct HVS 5a, 4c
Fully clean
Vindaloo
** Christmas Curry H. severe
Suffering form overuse, go climb Rio or Rienetta. Branches overhanging first pitch have been trimmed.
*** Micah Finish H. Severe
Clean as whistle
Finish of Moments E3 5c
Needs wire brushing, some suspect rock
** Tremudrock Finish VS 4c
Now fully clean and well worthwhile
Lleolwyr HVS 5b?
Clean (but hard for grade)
*** The Plum E1 5b
Clean, direct corner start 5c/6a, can be avoided by traversing in higher
Bombshell, Lost. Molar, Lost. Footless Frenzy, Lost. Quimbo, Lost.

*** The Fang HVS 5a, 5a
Clean
** The Root E2 5c
Clean
*** Extraction E2 5c, 5c
Tip for 2nd pitch - Move up diagonally right to a narrow ledge on the wall (good wires in an undercut). Egnoring the tempting chalked up sidepulls above (hard going) move right to the arete and semi mantle onto a good ledge (much easier)
Clean
*** Striptease VS 5a
Clean, most people will abseil from in situ abseil station at top of pitch one
** Burlesque E3 6a
Now fully clean
* High Kicks E2 5b, 5c
Now clean
* G String HVS 5b
Clean
* Triangulum H. severe
Clean

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Craig Nant Dwr Oer

mihangel — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 04:03:48 CDT

This is a "magic" little crag just above Blaenau Ffestiniog and should be of interest to local climbers. Best visited in the afternoon or evening when the sun has come round onto the crag. A very pleasant location.
See attachment at bottom of page for crag information.

Craig y Wernas

mihangel — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 10:49:18 CDT

This is a small crag below the described crags of Dyniewyd east. There are existing routes on the subsiduary buttresses but the routes on the the topo have not been published before
See attachment for route details.

Craig Wen Clynnog hills

mihangel — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 05:40:45 CDT

This is the shiny white crag that can be seen from the main Caernarfon to Porthmadog road at Pant Glas. Although strictly speaking not in the catchment area of the Tremadog guide it has been overlooked by previous guides covering adjacent areas (Lleyn and Cwm Silyn). It seems a shame that lying in no man's land as it does that local climbers should be deprived of information about a very useful mountain crag with a stunning outlook.
Not a major crag by any stretch of the imagination it does ,however, provide an useful alternative venue for locals looking for somewhere different to climb.

See attachment at foot of page for topo

Merlin Buttress

mihangel — Wed, 28 May 2008 13:02:25 CDT

Down to Earth E2
Clean
Re-Entry E2
First pitch would need a brush before climbing
** Belshazzar HVS 5a
Clean, seems daft wandering over to finish up Reinetta, just follow the arete to the top.
Earthsea HVS 5a
Clean, but you're advised to start up the rib as for Salamanda, and you join Belshazzar quite soon, so not much of a route
** Daddy Cool E2 5c
Clean (much better when finished up the Sting)
** Salamanda E1 4b, 5b (The direct finish is 5c up the thin crack, so as soon as you've got it wimp out leftwards, still good value)
Clean
* The Sting E2 5c
Clean
Heartbreak Hotel
Lost
*** Rienetta H. Severe (probably VS 4c)
New start: Start as for Heartbreak Hotel but trend rightwards across slab to Merlin stance. Traverse left to belay above first tree. Brilliant, unlikely climbing to the top, ace route. Don’t worry about blocks on top pitch these are no worse than any others here!
Dragon E2 6b
First pitch lost, main pitch could and clean approach as for new Rienetta start
*** Merlin VS 5a
Can be started as for new Rienetta start to give an excellent Hard Severe . Climbed wall to right of second pitch the other day (left of Geireagle) moving up and slightly right from belay. Very good 4c pitch but one hollow hold, worthwhile variation, Mike Raine.
*** Merlin Direct HVS 5a
Tread lightly over detached blocks
** Vulture E4 6a
Clean
** Geireagle E3 5c
Clean
** Y Broga HVS 5a The crucial block hold at the top of the first crack is very loose. Take care.
Clean
Oberon Severe -ish
Start as described in guide is polished and has poor protection. A crack to its right can be climbed direct but whilst being very well protected in harder. There is a diff groove to the right which is pretty much in keeping with the upper pitches. The whole route is probably best left to instructional parties!
Trivial Pursuits
Well worthwhile, but might be worth a brush first.
Emotional Crisis
Good, but very obscure, abseil inspection recommended. The tree was used as a runner and for upward progress on the first ascent! This was confrimed by first ascentionist, Adrian Hardcastle today (27.06.07) on a flying vist form Saudi arabia, 23 years on.

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Oakover Buttress

MikeRaine — Sun, 27 Apr 2008 12:07:48 CDT

* Knell for a Jackdaw Severe
Cleaned. A left -hand variation on first pitch ignores the rightwards moves and goes straight upto a good flake, A good pitch. The normal way is clean and OK now, just becareful which bit of the tree you pull on! Run pitches 1 and 2 together, and 3 and 4.
** Hedera HVS 5a, 5a
Clean, best done in one pitch, just follow the arching corner, or try **Headera, pull through cracks and roofs above belay tree at HVS to lower off.

* Oakover VS 4c
Clean, start one metre right of Hedera and climb slab for 5 metres before rejoining main crack line of Hedera TAWNY OWL NESTING IN TREE, CHICKS THERE 26.04.08
** Bloodsucker E2 5c
Clean
** Heartline E3 5c
Clean

**Axeover VS 4c
An excellent line. Start as for Axeminster alternative start. Follow snaking groove to tenuous pull through small roof immediately right of the tree near the top.
* FFalabalam VS 4c (if tree avoided at top!)
Follow Axeminster until it is possible to climb its left wall from a spike. When behind the tree near the top make exciting moves left to finish(without using the tree!)
Axeminster V.Diff
Clean, Can be done in one pitch or take a semi-hanging belay on tree at 25 metres.
* Föhn H. Severe
Overhanging branches removed
* Chinook H. Severe
Overhanging branches removed. might feel like VS on the lead.

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