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Omo
Lost

* Cnychwyr Severe
First pitch now fully clean and makes a good, well protected variation start to Rio (2nd pitch was very similar to Rio any way)
Tree Radical
Lost

** Rio Severe
Now fully clean, top pitch on superb unpolished rock has a little run out, enjoy!
Abseil station at top of this route.

Rio, Pitch OneJanet Sumner on Rio
** Gwaed E1
A fine climb
Abseil station at top of this route
Penicillin E3 6b
*** Chwys E1 5b
A great route, abseil station located at the top of this route, the peg is old and looks rusty but still feels quite solid, you can get a good RP4 or similar in next to it.
Sheer Khan
The second pitch has been lost
But the route has been replaced with:
** Sheer Khan Right-hand V.Diff
A very good route at this grade. Climb the Sheer Khan slab to belay below the steeper headwall. Pitch 2; step up onto the headwall then traverse left to a recently cleaned groove which is followed to the top. Photo below:
Sheer Kahn Right Hand, Pitch Two
Just left of the top corner of Sheer Khan Right hand is a neat little hand jam crack too.

* Sheer Resist E4 6b

Abseil inspection recommended
* Smarter then the Average Bear Severe
Great top pitch up obvious groove on head wall, probably severe
** Yogi VS 4b 4b
Climb the diagonal, quartz filled crack on the headwall
* Mr. Ranger VS 4b
Now fully gardened (see below), The line is obvious, follow the corner then the slab, then back into the corner and finally up cracks to join Yogi, finish up the arête. Mr. Ranger
* Tro Hard Severe
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this route
** Dagrau HVS 5a
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this route
* Llafur E1 5b
Clean. There is an abseil station at the top of this routeTro, Dagrau and Llafur

These last three routes are now visible from the road and should dry very quickly with the removal of the large sycamore at the base.

























MikeRaine
MikeRaine
Latest page update: made by MikeRaine , May 11 2009, 8:22 AM EDT (about this update About This Update MikeRaine Edited by MikeRaine

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JonCrox Chwys 4 Sep 23 2009, 6:10 PM EDT by JonCrox
Thread started: Sep 14 2009, 10:36 AM EDT  Watch
I have looked at this line with the existing Trem guide in hand but can't make head or tail of where it goes. Is there a topo available? Which makes me wonder when the new guide is coming out (I gather one is in production).
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Toreador11 Sheer Khan Right-hand 2 Jun 29 2009, 9:57 PM EDT by DavidMed
Thread started: Apr 21 2008, 10:50 AM EDT  Watch
Super little route - but I don't think the average VDiff leader would thank you for pointing them at this! We thought it about HS 4a (hard to protect the crux).
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5wombats Thanks for cleaning those routes! 2 Sep 13 2007, 4:29 PM EDT by 5wombats
Thread started: Jun 29 2007, 3:35 PM EDT  Watch
Don't ask me how I got here - but that's the Internet for you ! You won't know me as 5wombats but I'm the guy who did the first ascents of Gwead & Dagrau - Martin Roberts. These were put up in the early 80's (1984 ?) Gwead in particular took a lot of gardening especially at the bottom. Me and 'Crag' Jones did the work and we invited another guy along just to make sure that the route would become popular. Anyway - I'm delighted to see that the route now sports 2 stars - I don't remember it being that good!. I seem to remember soloing it in trainers once, but I was fit in those days. As for Dagrau - my welsh friend Crag told me that Chwys meant "sweat" (I think!) so I thought we'd better have "Blood", "Sweat" and "Tears" to complete the sequence. Can't remember which is which now. Anyway Dagrau was a solo project for me and took one heck of a clean at the top and bottom. In those days it was right in the boonies but the groove took my eye one day when I was exploring and thought I could make a route out of it. Abseil off is a good idea. Amazed this sports 2 stars - but if it was clean and open the rock is perfect, unlike some of the other Trem "classics".
WELL DONE & THANKS to you guys - whoever you are for keeping these routes open. They aren't mega classics but one day when my 4 year old grows up and asks me what else I did when I was at University I can take him to Trem and show him.
Martin Roberts
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