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Neb Buttress
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* Clean Edge E3 6a
Start at foot of Clapton's Crack approach (by metal rung). Step right on to the slab, follow a finger crack, interesting moves around the overhang lead to a rightwards move to gain some flakes. Go up the 'v' groove then make a tricky step right to end up beneath the leaning head wall. This is your 'Strawberries'! Hard climbing up thin cracks takes you to the 'Clean Edge', thence back up right to the abseil station. Abseil station.
Given a trim at '09 Festival, get on it!
** Kestrel Cracks VS 4c, 5a
Now fully clean
** The Neb E2 5b, 5c
Ledge at top of pitch two fully trimmed back, can be climbed in two pitches At top of first pitch ignore guide description, instead move into corner groove on right, pull out right (junction with Dotheboys) and up to spike belay. Much better.
* Broken Edge E2 5c
Usually started from the left, clean
*** Neb Direct HVS 5a/E4 6b!
Oak to be trimmed
** Dotheboys E1 5c/E2/6a
Clean, hard for grade
** Anagram E2 5c
Now fully clean
* Final Exam E2 5c
Now fully clean. WATCH OUT FOR SOME LOOSE BLOCKS
Magic Mushroom
Lost
* Clean Edge E3 6aStart at foot of Clapton's Crack approach (by metal rung). Step right on to the slab, follow a finger crack, interesting moves around the overhang lead to a rightwards move to gain some flakes. Go up the 'v' groove then make a tricky step right to end up beneath the leaning head wall. This is your 'Strawberries'! Hard climbing up thin cracks takes you to the 'Clean Edge', thence back up right to the abseil station. Abseil station.
Given a trim at '09 Festival, get on it!
** Kestrel Cracks VS 4c, 5a
Now fully clean
** The Neb E2 5b, 5c
Ledge at top of pitch two fully trimmed back, can be climbed in two pitches At top of first pitch ignore guide description, instead move into corner groove on right, pull out right (junction with Dotheboys) and up to spike belay. Much better.
* Broken Edge E2 5c
Usually started from the left, clean
*** Neb Direct HVS 5a/E4 6b!
Oak to be trimmed
** Dotheboys E1 5c/E2/6a
Clean, hard for grade
** Anagram E2 5c
Now fully clean
* Final Exam E2 5c
Now fully clean. WATCH OUT FOR SOME LOOSE BLOCKS
Magic Mushroom
Lost
MikeRaine |
Latest page update: made by MikeRaine
, Apr 28 2009, 2:27 PM EDT
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| mihangel | Dotheboys | 0 | Apr 1 2007, 4:35 PM EDT by mihangel | ||
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Thread started: Apr 1 2007, 4:35 PM EDT
Watch
Was recently (6.7.05) claimed as Shrapnel E5 6B (hard). See entry in new routes books at Eric's and Pete's Eats. Who says ther's no such thing as grade creep?
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| mihangel | The Neb | 0 | Mar 28 2007, 4:57 PM EDT by mihangel | ||
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Thread started: Mar 28 2007, 4:57 PM EDT
Watch
At the top of the first pitch don't move across to belay on Kestrel Cracks. Move rightwards into the wide groove, pull out rightwards onto the rib (junction with Dotheboys) and continue to a good block belay. Why not abseil down from here and do Dotheboys ? If the top pitch of The Neb is too hard for you ,don't lose out on the first pitch which is excellent, finish up Kestrel Cracks instead.
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