Moel y Gest |

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Sep 8 2009, 5:55 AM EDT (current) mihangel 76 words added
Aug 12 2008, 1:00 PM EDT mihangel 1 photo added

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Since the publication of the current Tremadog guide there has been quite a lot of new route activity on Moel y Gest. Some lines have been claimed by more than one party and existing climbs have also been claimed as new routes. Locating the start of climbs and interpreting route descriptions can be frustratingly difficult for the occasional visitor. The attached topo guide(see bottom of page) will hopefully make things easier. Most of the routes are relatively short but the quality of the rock and the beautiful setting overlooking Cardigan Bay more than compensate.
The original guide to these crags was written in 1951 by the well known author and mountaineer Showell Styles who was instrumental in promoting climbing amongst local youngsters. For well over 50 years it has has been a highly popular tradition,for local climbers and walkers, to meet on the summit of Moel y Gest on Boxing Day afternoon to exchange pleasantries and flasks containing various alcaholic beverages.

Loblolly Boy

Moel y Gest Quarry
Despite being a recent "crag of the day" on UKClimbing the quarry is dangerously unstable and should be avoided. Peregrines nest here so it should be left well alone
Foremast Hill
If you follow the access instructions in the guide you will never be able to locate the climbs. They are actually on the face overlooking Tyddyn LLwyn Caravan Park. In his original guide Showell Styles recommends "take the path past Tyddyn Llwyn farm, cross the wall beyond, and traverse to the left up the screes above". All approaches are unpleasant and ,to be quite honest, the routes are poor and not worth the effort.