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Borneo Buttress
Marino
Lost
* Geronimo E2, 5c, veg, 5b
Climbed this 28.05.09 with Elfyn Jones in the lead. Some very interesting and nice climbing but first pitch quite serious, we both bottled out of walking up the ramp. Third pitch needed gardening as we went and does have some large and unstable blocks. It's a quite a little adventure though, worthwhile for locals.
Savage Man E4 6a
Abseil inspection recommended
** Borneo VS 4c
Now fully clean and very good. Belay below top groove, not as described in guidebook. Climb top groove for a short way then undercut right and finish up the rib. The first ascent was by Brian Grimston who inadvertently omitted his own name from the first ascent party. Can we have it included in the new guide ?
Lost
* Geronimo E2, 5c, veg, 5b
Climbed this 28.05.09 with Elfyn Jones in the lead. Some very interesting and nice climbing but first pitch quite serious, we both bottled out of walking up the ramp. Third pitch needed gardening as we went and does have some large and unstable blocks. It's a quite a little adventure though, worthwhile for locals.
Savage Man E4 6a
Abseil inspection recommended
** Borneo VS 4c
Now fully clean and very good. Belay below top groove, not as described in guidebook. Climb top groove for a short way then undercut right and finish up the rib. The first ascent was by Brian Grimston who inadvertently omitted his own name from the first ascent party. Can we have it included in the new guide ?
MikeRaine |
Latest page update: made by MikeRaine
, May 29 2009, 5:09 AM EDT
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| adrspach | Borneo warning | 0 | Jun 15 2009, 6:31 PM EDT by adrspach | ||
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Thread started: Jun 15 2009, 6:31 PM EDT
Watch
Just been cleaning it again last Saturday 13/06/09. A lot of turf and blocks were removed however there are very loose blocks in the top groove/chimney which I did not have balls to touch as they could colapse on me. It is avoidable if you climb the route as described. The rest was mostly moved only by hand which comparing the size of blocks generated rather scary thoughts. it needs a bit of rain to finish the cleaning but then it should be a nice counterpart to its' close neighbours.
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| Toreador11 | Borneo | 1 | Apr 21 2008, 4:29 PM EDT by MikeRaine | ||
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Thread started: Apr 21 2008, 11:24 AM EDT
Watch
What a fantastic route! We did it in one very long (55m) pitch. Not much gear on the first pitch, and the brambles were trying to make a return from the left of the slab, I removed a couple but quite hard without gloves!
Surely a 3-star classic in the making? |
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| DaiLampard | Savage Man | 1 | Sep 29 2007, 9:21 AM EDT by MikeRaine | ||
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Thread started: Sep 16 2007, 6:41 AM EDT
Watch
loose and on bad rock / awkward approach / basically - bag of !
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