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The purpose of this Wiki is to keep you updated on the changing nature of the routes at Tremadog. This is particularly important at Bwlch y Moch where much preparation work has been undertaken. Please feed back through this wiki your comments thoughts and information about any routes on the Tremadog cliffs.
LATEST NEWS: TREE WORK NOW COMPLETE
WILD AREAS ARE DELINATED BY LOGS, PLEASE LEAVE TO NATURE
FOOTPATH ENTRANCES ARE MARKED BY LOGS TO HELP YOU AND TO HELP CREATE WILD AREAS
PHOTOS BELOW; ON THE LEFT LOGS MARKING 'WILD AREA' ON THE RIGHT LOGS MARKING PATH ENTRANCE
Suggested Itineraries
Abseiling at Bwlch y Moch
Festival Gallery
Mark Reeves Festival Photo Diary
Grasper Buttress
Neb buttress
Christmas Curry Area
Vector Buttress
Shadrach Buttress
Slips Area
Oakover Buttress
Merlin Buttress
Boo Boo Buttress
Borneo Buttress
Yogi Area
Gardener's Gallery
Projects for you!
Graded List Bwlch Y Moch
Pant Ifan,
Fear, Eifionydd and Pen Y Ci
Peuterey Buttress
Avalanche Buttress
Strangeways Buttress
Hogmany Buttress
Outlying crags
Craig Wen
Craig y wernas
Moel y Gest
Craig Nant Dwr Oer
The gardening days have been supported by Eric's Caff, Plas y Brenin and The BMC.
Two other wiki's you may find of interest are www.gogarth.wetpaint.com and www.slate.wetpaint.com . Eric Jones's cafe is right at the base of the crag and is a good place to camp or stay in one of his bunk houses visit; www.ericjones-tremadog.co.uk if you need more information.
Weather: Here a link to the Porthmadog page on metcheck. And here's a link to the webcam at the WHR station in Porthmadog.
LATEST NEWS: TREE WORK NOW COMPLETE
WILD AREAS ARE DELINATED BY LOGS, PLEASE LEAVE TO NATURE
FOOTPATH ENTRANCES ARE MARKED BY LOGS TO HELP YOU AND TO HELP CREATE WILD AREAS
PHOTOS BELOW; ON THE LEFT LOGS MARKING 'WILD AREA' ON THE RIGHT LOGS MARKING PATH ENTRANCE
This Wiki is not intended to replace the guide book but act as a dynamic supplement through which we can inform each other about the current status of the routes. There are lots of question marks still, please add your comments as appropriate. If you do any further gardening please edit this Wiki appropriately. I will be adding photo's and hopefully some topo's as time goes by.
For the third consecutive year, the weekend of the 18th and 19th April saw the hosting of the BMC Cymru Wales Tremadog Festival. Accompanied by wall to wall sunshine and soaring temperatures, a total of 90 climbers from all over the U.K. turned up at Eric’s caff and field to volunteer their “green-fingered” services. The aim of this annual gathering is to trim and garden spring plant growth from many of the routes at BMC owned, Craig Bwlch Y Moch. In total, 52 routes were cleaned and tidied. Some required just a quick fettle with the secateurs whilst others were subjected to a more extensive level of cleaning… a bit like the difference between a bronze and a gold clean at your local car wash! Organised by Mike Raine of BMC Cymru Wales in association with the Countryside Commission for Wales, this event positively demonstrates and confirms climber’s changing attitudes to the cleaning of established rock climbs. Without this sort of annual event many of the classic and, especially, the not-so-classic routes would become hopelessly overgrown by the encroaching vegetation and, eventually, render these routes effectively un-climbable. In addition to this, some ground work was also done at the base of the cliff to the paths and steps. At the top of the cliff the abseil stations towards the right-hand end were inspected and, in some cases, replaced with new static line and maillons. Please adhere to the new advice signage on the crag notice board if intending to use them rather than walk down. The après-cleaning festivities continued into the evening with a raffle and prize draw with prizes very kindly donated by local businesses such as DMM, V12, Joe Brown Shop, Pete’s Eats, Ground Up, Chris Williams and the Brondanw Pub at Lllanfrothen. By some coincidence, there were around 90 prizes so everyone won something!! This was followed by a slide show on Patagonia hosted by Tim Neil and a campsite bonfire in Eric’s field. All this was washed down with 3 barrels of fine real ale provided courtesy of the Climber’s Club, the BMC and Derby University M.C. Thanks also go out to Eric Jones who provided the warm hospitality and seemingly endless supplies of sausage and chips! However, the biggest thanks go out to all the climbers who gave up their own time and energy to undertake the various tasks. Apart from completing some very valuable and much needed work, the weekend was also very much a social success. It not only raised awareness for a set of environmental issues affecting one of Wales’ premier crags but showed how “we”, as climbers, can give something back to the thing that we use and take so much pleasure from. Anyone wishing to gain further information and/or the newsletter about this or, any other issue(s) affecting Welsh climbing, can contact BMC Cymru Wales by emailing: bmccymruwales@live.co.uk Jim Kelly. 04.20.09
2010's festival will probably be on the 17/18th April
Everybody's Blog
3rd ANNUAL BMC CYMRU TREMADOG FESTIVAL: 18TH/19TH APRIL, 2009.
For the third consecutive year, the weekend of the 18th and 19th April saw the hosting of the BMC Cymru Wales Tremadog Festival. Accompanied by wall to wall sunshine and soaring temperatures, a total of 90 climbers from all over the U.K. turned up at Eric’s caff and field to volunteer their “green-fingered” services. The aim of this annual gathering is to trim and garden spring plant growth from many of the routes at BMC owned, Craig Bwlch Y Moch. In total, 52 routes were cleaned and tidied. Some required just a quick fettle with the secateurs whilst others were subjected to a more extensive level of cleaning… a bit like the difference between a bronze and a gold clean at your local car wash! Organised by Mike Raine of BMC Cymru Wales in association with the Countryside Commission for Wales, this event positively demonstrates and confirms climber’s changing attitudes to the cleaning of established rock climbs. Without this sort of annual event many of the classic and, especially, the not-so-classic routes would become hopelessly overgrown by the encroaching vegetation and, eventually, render these routes effectively un-climbable. In addition to this, some ground work was also done at the base of the cliff to the paths and steps. At the top of the cliff the abseil stations towards the right-hand end were inspected and, in some cases, replaced with new static line and maillons. Please adhere to the new advice signage on the crag notice board if intending to use them rather than walk down. The après-cleaning festivities continued into the evening with a raffle and prize draw with prizes very kindly donated by local businesses such as DMM, V12, Joe Brown Shop, Pete’s Eats, Ground Up, Chris Williams and the Brondanw Pub at Lllanfrothen. By some coincidence, there were around 90 prizes so everyone won something!! This was followed by a slide show on Patagonia hosted by Tim Neil and a campsite bonfire in Eric’s field. All this was washed down with 3 barrels of fine real ale provided courtesy of the Climber’s Club, the BMC and Derby University M.C. Thanks also go out to Eric Jones who provided the warm hospitality and seemingly endless supplies of sausage and chips! However, the biggest thanks go out to all the climbers who gave up their own time and energy to undertake the various tasks. Apart from completing some very valuable and much needed work, the weekend was also very much a social success. It not only raised awareness for a set of environmental issues affecting one of Wales’ premier crags but showed how “we”, as climbers, can give something back to the thing that we use and take so much pleasure from. Anyone wishing to gain further information and/or the newsletter about this or, any other issue(s) affecting Welsh climbing, can contact BMC Cymru Wales by emailing: bmccymruwales@live.co.uk Jim Kelly. 04.20.09
2010's festival will probably be on the 17/18th April
Everybody's Blog
Abseiling at Bwlch y Moch
Festival Gallery
Mark Reeves Festival Photo Diary
Grasper Buttress
Neb buttress
Christmas Curry Area
Vector Buttress
Shadrach Buttress
Slips Area
Oakover Buttress
Merlin Buttress
Boo Boo Buttress
Borneo Buttress
Yogi Area
Gardener's Gallery
Projects for you!
Graded List Bwlch Y Moch
Pant Ifan,
Fear, Eifionydd and Pen Y Ci
Peuterey Buttress
Avalanche Buttress
Strangeways Buttress
Hogmany Buttress
Outlying crags
Craig Wen
Craig y wernas
Moel y Gest
Craig Nant Dwr Oer
The gardening days have been supported by Eric's Caff, Plas y Brenin and The BMC.
Two other wiki's you may find of interest are www.gogarth.wetpaint.com and www.slate.wetpaint.com . Eric Jones's cafe is right at the base of the crag and is a good place to camp or stay in one of his bunk houses visit; www.ericjones-tremadog.co.uk if you need more information.
Weather: Here a link to the Porthmadog page on metcheck. And here's a link to the webcam at the WHR station in Porthmadog.
MikeRaine |
Latest page update: made by MikeRaine
, Jul 21 2009, 2:09 AM EDT
(about this update
About This Update
Edited by MikeRaine
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| milles | route to the left of daddy cool ? | 0 | May 23 2009, 5:42 PM EDT by milles | ||
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Thread started: May 23 2009, 5:42 PM EDT
Watch
Can anybody tell me what is the route to the left of daddy cool ! It has two old pegs in it, i`ts not in the guidebook.
cheers ! mills. |
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| MikeRaine | Green Spots on Trees | 4 | May 11 2009, 8:24 AM EDT by MikeRaine | ||
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Thread started: Mar 20 2009, 3:40 PM EDT
Watch
These are trees which may or may not be removed depending on inspection form the National Park
Cheers Mike |
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| MikeRaine | Work Weekend results - Approaching Bwlch y Moch through the the woods | 0 | Jan 12 2009, 6:19 AM EST by MikeRaine | ||
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Thread started: Jan 12 2009, 6:19 AM EST
Watch
Tremadog Work day 10th January
A small but very effective team gathered at Eric’s Caff on a dark and grey morning. We set to work on identifying the best approaches to climbs on Bwlch y Moch and beginning work on improving these approaches. A fantastic job was started on the main Christmas Curry approach through the woods. This path was becoming a bit of a mess which is one of the reasons (apart from being lost!) why there are so many odd paths in the woods below the crag. So it was decided to improve this path so that it become the natural ‘desire’ line up to the rock face. Some very impressive footpath work was undertaken, particularly by Mills Davis and Elfyn Jones. This path gives the best approach through the trees to all climbs between Grasper and G String. Further work will see this line delineated by felled timber and the closing off of the other random paths in the woods. Other projects which were commenced but await the timber work to become really effective are the Valerie’s Rib approach, where felled timber is required to close off unhelpful paths and stabilising the ground below Rio. Work will continue on these projects by a small group of locals, if anyone can offer further help at odd times then please contact us at bmccymruwales@live.co.uk . We will need some help shifting timber as it is felled by the tree surgeons. Mike Raine |
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